Thursday, November 17, 2011

I Made Greens Taste Like Cherry Pie

This is definitely going on the Thanksgiving menu. It tastes like cherry pie filling which is amazing and surprising.

  • Onion, chopped
  • 2 slices bacon, diced
  • garlic
  • chopped radish (like 5 radishes)
  • Sweet Vermouth
  • Big bunch of kale, washed, stems removed
  • Head of frise lettuce from my garden (yes I found time to clear the old plot and throw some see down).
  • Radish greens


This is mostly kale and frise, mostly kale really.

Cook bacon in a big saute pan. Add onion, garlic and radish chunks. Cook for 10 minutes or so.

Deglaze with about a cup of sweet vermouth! I think this is key to the cherry pie flavor.

Add the greens and some salt. Cover and cook on medium for about 10-15 minutes (until greens are tender).

Mix it all up and eat with anything.

Seriously, cherry pie.

return true;

I'm back!

The long respite was due to a move. The wife and I are now back on the Eastern Shore of Maryland where she has started her new job. And our first baby due December 4th! Big events = no blogging.

I hope to detail my Thanksgiving menu in the coming week before the big day, but once the baby is here, posts will likely be sporadic.

For today, I'll just stick with my simple vegetable lunch: Sautéed mushrooms and carrots with cumin.

This gets back to what I like best about cooking, throwing some stuff in a pan with spices and see what happens.

Butter, olive oil, hot pan. Cumin seeds, black cumin seeds, sizzle. Sliced mushrooms, don't crowd the pan!, brown. Sliced garlic clove. Roughly chopped carrots. Salt and pepper to taste. Toss until carrots are just soft, put veggies in bowl. Deglazed with some left over Pinot Grigio, it set fire, set off smoke alarm sending little dog hiding under a bed the rest of the day. Reduced and spooned over vegetables.

This wasn't that great a combination. I think the black cumin seeds actually over cooked a bit. Rosemary and fennel maybe a better choice. Oh well, its healthy.

Note on the wine fire, we got a new stove here and I'm not used to the power of the 17,000 BTU burner yet. It flambés well, I can tell you that.

Saturday, July 9, 2011

Pulled Pork vs. Carnitas: Pulled makes a comeback

Previously I touted the superiority of carnitas when it comes to preparing a pork shoulder. I stand by the assertion, but I just made some pulled pork that closes the gap.

This technique is not how most people make pulled pork. Its more like an indian dish at the beginning, make a masala to build intense flavor, then braise the meat with this masala. But there are more European elements. The meat is seared first and braised in a liquid more common to a tuscan stew. The braising liquid becomes a bbq sauce then it is mixed together at the end like a southern pulled pork.

The flavor in this is interesting. It isn't exactly a tomato base, but there is tomato in it. The vegetables, particularly the parsnips, make a potent base. Then the cinnamon, cumin, coriander, and smoked paprika combine to make a sweet and intense sauce.

Hardware:
Dutch oven, sized appropriately for the hunk of pork. I used an enameled cast iron pot.

Software:
4-5 pound pork roast. Shoulder or boston butt, bone in is probably better but not necessary.
.25 cups canola oil
.5 cups finely diced onion
.5 cups finely diced carrot
.5 cups finely diced parsnip (thats right, parsnips)
5 cloves garlic, crushed
1-2 cups diced tomato. I used 5 plum.

Spices:
1 T cumin seeds
1 3 inch cinnamon stick
1 T coriander
1 T smoked paprika
1 tsp cayenne
1 tsp ground black pepper
1 tsp turmeric
1 T salt
.5 tsp ground mustard

Braising liquid:
2 cups stock, chicken and/or lamb. I used a homemade combination of both.
1 cup red wine
.25 cups balsamic vinegar
zest of 1 lemon
bay leaf

Process:
Preheat over to 300 F.
Liberally salt the pork on all sides. Let it sit for at least 30 minutes to bring it close to room temperature.

Masala:
Put the canola oil in the dutch oven over medium heat. Add the cumin seeds.

When the seeds sizzle, add the onion, carrot, parsnips, and cinnamon stick. Cook for about 8 minutes, stirring occasionally. Then add the garlic for about 2 minutes.

Once all the vegetables are soft but not browned, stir in the rest of the spices, let it cook for about 1 minute.

Remove the masala from the pot to a separate dish.

Braised Pork
Sear the pork on all sides. It should get a nice browning.

Add the masala and the tomato. Pour in the braising liquid until the meat is 2/3 covered. This is important. 2/3 of the meat should be covered. This leads to proper braising.

Scrape up anything on the bottom of the pot. Put the lid on, put in the oven for 3-4 hours (3 for a 4 pound roast, 4 for a 5).

When its done, remove from oven, take the lid off and let it cool for an hour or 2. It is important to cool the meat in the liquid or will get dry.

When the meat is cooled off (it doesn't have to be room temperature, just cool enough to handle) move it to a big bowl. Shred it by taking two forks, simply pulling it apart.

BBQ Sauce:
Return the pot of braising liquid to the stove, (remove the cinnamon stick and bay leaf) simmer until reduced by about half. You are looking for an intensely flavored liquid because when you mix it with the pork, the pork has a calming effect on the spices. Taste the reduction, add salt or sugar is needed.

Now we have a decision to make. This pot is chock full of pork fat. Highly saturated, cholesterol laden, delicious, delicious pork fat. So you can use that pork fat or remove a good deal of it. If you choose to remove the fat, let the pot cool for a bit, then put it in the fridge over night. The fat will congeal on top then you can easily take it off.

This is just the braising liquid pureed. Dump it in a food processor or use a hand blender to smooth it out. I used a hand blender to puree it while still warm in the pot. If you cooled it off in the fridge, you might have to warm it up again, but maybe not.

Pulled Pork:
Mix some of the bbq sauce with the shredded pork. Amount is up to you, depends how wet you like it. Serve on a roll or with some cole slaw.

Sunday, July 3, 2011

Mushroom and Figs

I made an interesting accompaniment with baby bella mushrooms and dried mission figs. Went well with some breaded baked chicken, but pork chops would be good also.

Software
Quart of baby bella mushrooms, sliced
Onion finally diced, about half cup
4-6 garlic cloves, crushed
Olive oil
Chopped parsley
Balsamic vinegar

Dozen dried mission figs, quartered
Cup of white win, half oz butter

Hardware
Sauce pan
Frying pan

Pattern
Toss the figs, wine, and butter into the suace pan. Simmer until reduced by half.

In the fry pan, saute the onion and garlic with olive oil. Add the mushrooms and some more oil if needed.

Reduce heat and simmer for 10 minutes.

Strain the wine and fig mixture into the mushrooms. Add the parsley and splash of balsamic.

Season, stir, and reduce.

Good stuff.

Moving, Packing, and Tools

I'm moving back to Maryland! And soon, should be back in early August. So I've been packing. As I go through my kitchen stuff I thought it a good time to communicate some of my favorite tools.

In general, I like to follow the Alton Brown maxim: No single use tools. Except for the fire extinguisher.

I like silicon spatulas. They can do nearly everything, won't melt, dishwasher safe, and they aren't expensive.


I have some other ones as well, but you get the idea.

But they don't fully replace a good wooden spoon. Gotta have a good flat edge wooden spoon for scraping stuff on pans.

These are the ones Ruhlman is trying to sell, but I would just buy a similar item at Marshalls or something.


Sheet pans are essential. Nice heavy ones. Not coated. Restaurant supply stores are the place to get them. Those flimsy ones that warp at 450 F are pointless.


I do have a coated pan, but I use parchment paper or foil to line the pan when needed; thus, coated isn't very useful.

To go with the sheet pans, I like to use a rack. Its nice for things that need air on both sides like bacon or breaded chicken.


I love my All-Clad 10" fry pan.


I have a part of a set of a Calphalon One Infused Anondized (not coated). They are good pans, but they warp on the flat top electric. Thankfully, I'll have gas back in Maryland.

I use a coated cast iron pot for all kinds of stuff. It's a dutch oven, a stock pot, a rice cooker, and on and on. It's like a Le Crueset, but cheaper because its made in China.

One of the most versatile little tools I have is a dough cutter. I rarely cut dough. But it makes a great garlic smasher, its safer then a knife for moving dices onions from board to pan, and its even good for scraping counter tops.

Sunday, May 29, 2011

Key West: The Grand Cafe

Memorial day in Key West is as relaxing or wild as you choose it to be.

Saturday night we relaxed with an overview of the always wild north end od Duval Street. A less laid back crowd here on this Holiday weekend. Seems to me a younger rowdies bunch akin a South Beach. Petty much all the bars are packed. I could do this night out In West Palm and not know the difference. So we didn't.

For our nice dinner out we chose the Grand Cafe and we sat on the patio along Duval Street. It's a raised patio with a little wall keeping diners at arms reach from the drunkards passing by. We sat in the middle just left of the fountain, lucky pick because it was filling quickly after the sunset worshippers wandered back from Mallory Square. While A fortunate find for us, I think a table inside would have been even better. The dining rooms and bar area are very nice; they offer a respite from the overtly casual settings found in most Key West establishmensts (but it's not stuffy at all).

Each course was top notch.

Appetizers:
Tomato bisque with crab meat. I thick bisque, hearty and flavorful.

A signature dish, Bluefin tuna tartar. Tuna chopped and dressed with a touch of ginger/chive oil set between fried wonton chips atop cucumber slices. Template had a jalapeño aioli (sauce to us normal people) which added just enough heat. The whole thing is balanced. Great way to start.

Entre:
Seared scallops with couscouse. These scallops were perfect and a mild key lime beure blanc sauce didn't overpower them.

Filet with port wine demi glace, white truffle oil mashed potato, and sauté spinach. I don't usually order filet mignion as I find other cuts more flavorfull, but this combination looked the best and I did want a steak. Not disappointed.

Desert:
Key lime pie. Not the best I have had as it lacked the full tartness, but a pretty solid effort.

Highly recommend The Grand Cafe for a nice dinner in Key West. The tuna was the best single dish.

Monday, May 23, 2011

Vegetables Delivered, Results in Casserole

Living Social had a daily deal for organic vegetable delivery from Ms V's Organics. Small box of various fruits and vegetables delivered once a week for 4 weeks all for $71. That's $17.75 a week, which is pretty cheap for what amounts to nearly a weeks worth of produce for 2 people.

Downside, that didn't include delivery which cost me another $10 a week. So really the whole thing was $111 or $27.75 a week. If they had more flexible pickup option I would gladly save the delivery cost, but I digress.

It has been nice knowing more produce is arriving on Friday. Makes me eat more vegetables. Creates a need to cook vegetables in larger quantities. The result is a vegetable "lasagna". Its not really a lasagna in that there are no noodles. Its just layers of vegetables with a cauliflower based white sauce holding it all together. A more accuract name could be vegetable casserole with cauliflower puree.

The sauce
Software
1 head of cauliflower, broken into florets
1 backing potato, rough chop
Some parsnips (left over scraps from the lasagna below)
Half and half
Crème fraiche
Optional: Any diary available will do, just trying to muscle up the sauce

Hardware
Pot of boiling water
Food processor

Low boil the vegetables until soft enough to puree.

Spoon vegetables into food processor. Pulse to chop them up.

Puree on low setting while slowing adding whatever dairy you want until its a nice thick but liquid consistency. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

The Lasagna
Software
Carrots
Parsnips
Zucchini
Big onion
Cauliflower puree (above)
Olive Oil

Hardware
Mandoline
Rectangular casserole dish, mine is pyrex, any over safe thing will do. Size according to how many vegetables you have.

Preheat oven to 425.

Use mandolin to cut all the vegetables into long wide strips, about 4-5 inches long, 1/8 to a 1/4 inch thick. For example, I cut the carrots in half then ran them through lengthwise. Cutting in half first made the mandoline hand protector easier to use. I did not bother peeling anything, but you could.

For the onion, you are looking for round slices so do the best you can.

First add some olive oil to the casserole dish. Then a layer of onion circles. Keep them as together as possible, this makes a nice base for everything else. A little salt on the onions here. I think this helps them cook.

The next layers can go in ny order but I tried to keep the same vegetable on each layer:
Carrot
Puree
Zucchini
Puree
Parsnip
Puree

Finished it off with more onion on top along with olive oil. These onions weren't in circles anymore.

Put it in the over, uncovered. It will take at least 45 minutes, probably over an hour. When done a sharp knife should push through each layer with some resistance.

It is easier to serve if it cools significantly, then you can cut it just like a lasagna.

Result
Its a pretty good casserole. Goes will with most any protein or just by itself. It was time consuming to prep the vegetables, but it made 8 big servings.

I ate it for breakfast a few times. Reheat in the microwave with some shredded cheese then two over easy eggs on top.

Variations
You could do lots of stuff with this.

I'm thinking about adding a layer of sautéed greens to change up the flavor. Or add a fresh herb layer. Ricotta in the puree maybe.